Met random fishermen in random villages along the coast. Average incomes are around 9,000 shillings a month (about $125) – for a family size of 2 adults and 3 children (second, third wive and their kids not included). About 50% of that income is spent on food purchases : rice, vegetables, meat. The biggest fishes are sold to middlemen and wholesalers, the fishermen consume the leftovers. Every member of the family works towards generating an income. Boats are rented from a few boat-lords.
I found a large, white, but now red and sun-burnt volunteer in one of these villages. “I love this place”, he said without enthusiasm [and without an exclamation mark in his tone ]. His blackberry phone had discharged, week long power outage. What was he doing here ? Some obscure plan to build latrines. When I asked the villagers about a toilet, I was directed towards a clump of bushes, which seemed pleasant enough. The half-constructed latrine was some distance away – the brittle concrete radiating heat , hordes of flies and the smell of fish-bait. What problem was this cement horror solving?
One of the most lucrative businesses here is that of a liquor store. Most are run by enterprising groups of women. In another village, named after grains of mineral-salt, I met an old woman, an important person, one of the eminent palm wine brewers of the area. Lots of drunken men lay in the shade of baobab, most in an incoherent state. The other profitable enterprise is also run by women – a kind of thread, woven out of the tail bones of a shark, used for making fish nets.
What do they all think of the elections ?
We didn’t vote, we don’t have ID cards.
Few have ID cards here (which explains the low numbers on voter rolls, despite high population). Getting one requires lining up in some foreign government office, scratching the right palms, and answering difficult questions : “Are you really a Kenyan…?”, “Are you a muslim?”. Its just easier not getting an ID card – what would you use it here for anyway ?
Everybody knows, everyone else. Moreover, they see little reason to vote.
(One wonders, does an ID card serve any real purpose, apart from being a way of identifying someone negatively ? Clearly the history of this ID-card is rooted in colonial controls)
Borrowing and lending is via a local money-lender / pawn-broker who mortgages cash at atrocious interest rates, but users of his services are rare – for there isn’t much worth mortgaging. He showed me some of the abject pawned items: an ancient radio set, a silver bangle, a clock (one of those winding varieties, what use is a clock here anyway?).
It feels far away and remote, not for its distance, but because of the way the people ask with wonder about a remote and mythical place called Nairobi.
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